Buzacott Farm Pumper.

[cobbadog]

This is what we have at the cylinder head. I have no idea what it is or where it is from or off. Any clues? It is a cast iron back with a sheet metal front and a heavy baffle inside. I would have thought that providing my timing is not the issue this would be fairly quiet engine but it barks away all day. When we bought it there was a Briggs & Stratton muffler on it and it was just as noisey when it was fitted on the bottom of the cylinder.

[Scott]

Hello Cobba.
Maybe reduce the gap between the two plates to try and quieten the old pumper down a bit? The original has a small gap around the edge of the muffler. I'll measure it later.
The length of pipe to the muffler is important and I'm sure there is a 6" length mentioned in the pumper books I have. I wouldn't think having a longer pipe would matter very much.

In an earlier post you mentioned the oiler. Would it be possible to put a picture of that oiler up? I don't think I've ever seen one or if I had I didn't know what it was called.

So what's Dee's pumper named?

Cheers Scott

[cobbadog]

Thanks for that Scott. That distance just might be the issue and a longer pipe might help. Both of these suggestions are a cheap exercise to try so I will do this. I look forward to seeing what gap is normal.
Not even Dee knows what I have planned for this engine to make it GIRLY so the "Naming Day" will have to wait.
I will take some pics of the oiler supplied to me tomorrow for you to look at. There is a ball bearing in the bottom of then oiler just below where the site glass allows you to check the drip rate and is in the threaded part that screws into the elbow. On this one there is also a small diameter brass tube inside the oil reservoir that runs from the site glass section to the top of the reservoir just below the top of the oiler. Hopefully this will stop oil being spewed out of the oiler top like it used to with the old standard type oiler.

[rustyengines]

 There is a ball bearing in the bottom
This is what all oiliers should have that feed oil on to the rings, gudgeon pin as the ball stops blow back,
If you know what you are doing you can fit a ball to most stranded oiliers  to stop the oilier being pressurized and blow oil everywhere
Ian

[cobbadog]

Hi Ian, I thought I would give it a try and I found the right size ball bearing to fit nicely inside the thread section then I carefully worked out what height I wanted to fit a pin (piece of wire) just below the ball so it had only to lift the smallest amount. There was a small amount of movement between ball and seat but it did not stop the blow back so this is what I have bought to stop all the mess.
As you can see it has a snorkel tube inside the reservoir and there is a ball bearing just below the site glass at the bottom.

[Scott]

Hello Cobba.
I just went out to the shed and measured the gap in the muffler. I can wedge a 2.5mm drill bit between the two halves. A 3mm drill will kind off start the go down but not very far (about 1 or 2 mm) and the 2.5mm goes into the muffler a fare way but still tight.
I have not seen an oiler with a ball bearing yet. All mine have a triangular piece of brass made into a big needle just a needle and seat seen in carbi's with bowls. I've had to reseat a lot of them to stop the 'blowback'.

Cheers then
Scott

[cobbadog]

Thanks for the info on the muffler, this might be one of todays jobs. The ball bearing in in the bottom threaded section of the oiler. You have to look up from underneath to see it. Yep all of our other oilers have a needle and seat arrangement but that's to adjust the flow rate as well.

[rustyengines]

All mine have a triangular piece of brass made into a big needle
That's right Scott for about 98% of them
I think where John has gone wrong the ball is in the reducer therefore to large and heavy the bras piece is very light
For the size I think he would be better of finding a plastic ball
I have fitted a small (4mm diameter)steel ball into the bottom of a oilier and worked fine
Also the hole was only 4.5mm enough for oil to get past but not a sudden gush of air
Ian

[cobbadog]

Ok, thanks for info on why my ball bearing didn't work, another valuable lesson learnt. I am running a bit behind schedule with the paintwork but things are slowly coming together. The transporter is all done and painted and now drying so tomorrow I can assemble the bottom half of the motor to the transporter. I just fitted the flat belt pulley to the driven gear shaft and did a trial fit to ensure I haven't put it on too far and all is good. Once I did that I had another look around the driven gear and noticed that it has a centre dot type mark at the base of one tooth like it is a timing mark.
Would this be correct?
If so what do I align it up with?

[rustyengines]

Here is a oilier with a ball in it from new this is where I got the idea from, the up down movement would be less than 1mm
The last picture is what Scott is talking about the brass piece has a flat bottom and a cone top
Ian

[cobbadog]

Hi Ian, Thank you very much for those pics it makes it very clear to me what you have described. The top 2 pics are what I tried to duplicate using a steel ball bearing and it too had a very small gap between the ball and the seat so obviously the ball was too heavy to lift. Late today I managed to fit the lower section onto the transporter and it is a sign of progress at last. Tomorrow more will happen ,,,,, in theory!

[cobbadog]

On an earlier post Eric said the following; 

     "A lot of people are afraid of engine timing adjustments, so set the spark to TDC. You should not run any engine with the spark at TDC. Loud exhaust and overheating are the result."

I just was waiting for some paint to go off and had a look at what position the engine is in when "SPARK" with its arrow on the flywheel is in alignment with the exhaust push rod. This is the position I have always timed my engine and if I retime my engine to being at TDC as Eric has suggested in the first part of his quote the crank is one tooth later than where I have been timing my engine. I then re read Eric's post and became confused as it is then suggested to 'not run any engine with the spark at TDC' so was there a typo or am I reading the message wrong?

[cobbadog]

This is todays efforts. I am waiting for a sheet of cork gasket to arrive to make a new gasket for between the fuel tank and the mixer. I won't fit the new oiler until last and the magneto needs no attention so it will go on as soon as I can be straightened out by Eric's post as to where to time the engine. I am waiting until it is complete again to offer up the Naming Day. Dee has thought long and hard over this and I like it a lot, it is very apt for a Pumper engine.

[klanger]

A lot of people are afraid of engine timing adjustments, so set the spark to TDC. You should not run any engine with the spark at TDC. Loud exhaust and overheating are the result.

Eric

Hi John, not wanting to speak for Eric, but I think what he is trying to say is that some people are unsure of where to set timing and set it at TDC. He then states NOT to to run at TDC.
there I would think that the "spark" as per your usual settings. I'am no expert, just how I interpreted Eric's post.

Kev

[Scott]

Hello Cobba.
Looking good.
Just time the spark and exhaust the usual way at the usual marks.
Cheers then
Scott