Author Topic: MOFFAT VIRTUE (Rosebery) HOPPER HEADS  (Read 5982 times)

*hatman*

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MOFFAT VIRTUE (Rosebery) HOPPER HEADS
« on: 29 December, 2011, 11:37:48 pm »
I am restoring a 4HP Moffat Virtue Rosebery engine. I am replacing the standard head with an unused brand spanker new ex factory hopper head (just happened to be in the right place at the right time :) for the engine and I would really appreciate it if someone could give me some advice on what method was used to secure the head to the block. Yeah I know with nuts!!

I have been informed that 5/8 BSW brass dome nuts were used with no washer underneath.Others have said differently. It seems as this is a bit of lost knowledge.

Would someone be kind enough to impart some knowledge on what the original arrangement for attaching the hopper head to these engines.

Many thanks in advance.

rustyengines

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Re: MOFFAT VIRTUE (Rosebery) HOPPER HEADS
« Reply #1 on: 30 December, 2011, 12:13:02 pm »
Hi hatman
  I don’t know what 4HP Moffat Virtue used BUT other makes of engine where the head/water hopper is fitted the same way, brass dome nuts were used, this was done to protect the head stud so if ever you want to undo it you can and yes I have seen normal steel nuts used and if you want to undo them you can’t as they have rusted away along with the stud 
I have also seen plain brass nuts fitted which makes it easy to fit on a spanner but it does not get you very far as the exposed head stud is all rusted up
Washer used? I have seen steel and copper used, copper would be best as it would compress a little bit which would give you a better seal
I saw one chap fit Stainless steel head studs and nuts so he could always undo it
It does not have to be original, who is going to see it as long as it works for you its your engine your money your time 
Ian
Southern Cross Engines, Lawn Mowers and old tools * TOWNSVILLE

AUSDOK

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Re: MOFFAT VIRTUE (Rosebery) HOPPER HEADS
« Reply #2 on: 04 January, 2012, 08:34:55 pm »
Hi hatman I have just done up a 4hp and used dome brass nuts with no washers if you have a problem sourcing the nuts, email me and I may be able to assist. Cheers Rudy

*hatman*

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Re: MOFFAT VIRTUE (Rosebery) HOPPER HEADS
« Reply #3 on: 10 January, 2012, 09:02:11 pm »
Thank you very much for the info guys. I have decided to custom make the nuts (5) using solid hex brass rod. They will be 1 1/8 " with the 5/8 Whitworth thread internally. The head stud protrudes about 20mm above the ead when the head is seated on the block so I will make the nuts about 35 mm long with a flat top and bevelled edge. It will use about 7" of rod.

Thanks again. If anyone has a description of an original hopper head nut that would go on these engines then this would be greatly appreciated.


Scott

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Re: MOFFAT VIRTUE (Rosebery) HOPPER HEADS
« Reply #4 on: 10 January, 2012, 09:21:54 pm »
If anyone has a description of an original hopper head nut that would go on these engines then this would be greatly appreciated.


Hello.
How's tomorrow sound?
I brought one with a hopper on it today.
I hope it's still there tomorrow

Cheers Scott

*hatman*

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Re: MOFFAT VIRTUE (Rosebery) HOPPER HEADS
« Reply #5 on: 11 January, 2012, 01:56:26 pm »
Fantastic, looking forward to it.

If you might be able to include all the important dimensions or measurements in the description that would be really great. :)

Kindest Regards

Phil

Scott

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Re: MOFFAT VIRTUE (Rosebery) HOPPER HEADS
« Reply #6 on: 11 January, 2012, 02:47:41 pm »
Fantastic, looking forward to it.

If you might be able to include all the important dimensions or measurements in the description that would be really great. :)

Kindest Regards

Phil
Hello again.
They're just bits of hex with what looks like a 45 degree taper taken off the top.
These may have been made up as well.
There were no washers but it looks as though there was some sort of gasket goo under the nut


*hatman*

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Re: MOFFAT VIRTUE (Rosebery) HOPPER HEADS
« Reply #7 on: 11 January, 2012, 08:19:06 pm »
The photos tell the story and it looks as though these are pretty close to what I am actually turning up.

I know that the nuts won't be seen but to me I will know and I wanted to try and keep everything identical to or as close as possible to original specs.

Looks like I guessed right. I will post a photo of the finished articles with specs if that's of interest. I will be using Loctite 567 under the nuts to give a watertight seal. I suspect that the sealant under the original nuts was something similar.

Thanks for the pics.

I will be posting pics in the near future of the engine rebuild and it coming together if that is of interest.

Phil