Author Topic: McDonald Imperial Super Diesel  (Read 4663 times)

winchester

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Re: McDonald Imperial Super Diesel
« Reply #30 on: 10 April, 2020, 11:08:00 am »
Yes well I feel that this subject has well and truly reached it's  used by date !

cobbadog

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Re: McDonald Imperial Super Diesel
« Reply #31 on: 10 April, 2020, 03:53:09 pm »
YES WELL,

Why is that Goosie?
If you don't like it then don't open it.
Cheers, John & Dee. Coopernook. NSW.

cobbadog

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Re: McDonald Imperial Super Diesel
« Reply #32 on: 10 April, 2020, 03:59:08 pm »
Regardless of the comment by "The Goose" I will continue.

Today has been a day of cleaning up the carbon black from the side covers, removed one of the crankshaft seals and pushed one of the main bearings out far enough to clean up the blocked oil galleries
Cheers, John & Dee. Coopernook. NSW.

cobbadog

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Re: McDonald Imperial Super Diesel
« Reply #33 on: 10 April, 2020, 04:15:31 pm »
Next I continued to clean up the crank, the big end journal had light surface rust and cleaned off with some fine wet n dry. Then I cleaned up the big end set up and you can see the 3 shims that will sit between the big end bearing carrier and the bottom of the conrod which you can add or subtract the shims to alter the compression ratio. Then I bolted it in place for safe keeping, only a bit better than finger tight.
Cheers, John & Dee. Coopernook. NSW.

cobbadog

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Re: McDonald Imperial Super Diesel
« Reply #34 on: 10 April, 2020, 04:22:21 pm »
Finally for today Mr Goosie if your still insisting on reading this;

The crankshaft looks worse than it actually is. The pitting is not too bad and is certainly good enough for a rally engine to run on and I have coated it all with a lick of Lanox. The brass tube with a copper nut, which is back to front to what oil and fuel lines are is from the oil primer. It still screws onto the brass elbow by hand which did amaze me. It has come adrift from the oil primer and I can see where it was soldered into the primer body which appears to be brass or a bronze. I was going to solder it back into place but then realised that the union nut will not fit back through the hole in the side of the hopper.
So I need to ask how is this usually done?
Cheers, John & Dee. Coopernook. NSW.

cobbadog

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Re: McDonald Imperial Super Diesel
« Reply #35 on: 11 April, 2020, 04:22:32 pm »
In today's episode of the expired used by date topic, the saga continues.

Yes well, today it was time to remove some broken studs that hold the coffee pot hopper in place and the ones that held the oil primer on. Plan of attack was to heat up one at a time add some Lanox to cool it and draw the product down into the thread and heat it again a few times, then use the stud extractor and wind them out. Worked perfectly on the first 2 but #3 snapped off. So out with the drill and find centre and start drilling. I took it out so far then tried an easy-out (extractor for some) and it was too tight so I kept stepping up the drill bit size and finally the old stud let go by winding itself down and into the hopper. Then I got out the 3/8" BSW tap and cleaned out the threads
Cheers, John & Dee. Coopernook. NSW.

cobbadog

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Re: McDonald Imperial Super Diesel
« Reply #36 on: 11 April, 2020, 04:35:04 pm »
Then it was time for the oil primer studs to be removed. Again threads cleaned up with the 1/4" BSW tap. how would the brass tube have been fitted into the primer originally? I think the tube is thick enough to be brass threaded tube and may have been screwed into the primer. Any thoughts?
Cheers, John & Dee. Coopernook. NSW.

cobbadog

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Re: McDonald Imperial Super Diesel
« Reply #37 on: 11 April, 2020, 04:45:11 pm »
Next was the moment that scares you when you see it, the reason why the engine was shut down for the last time. It was hard to see with all the crud covering it up but once removed and cleaned up you can see why. What had happened is the roller that runs on the cam seized solid and simply wore away the cam and that would have meant that the valves would not open as designed and cause loss of power. The roller and the slide it is attached to is now cleaned and free to work and ready to be put back in place when it is time.
Question; what is the best welding type to repair this? MIG or a certain grade electrode for the arc welder? It will need to be built up a bit to be level with the part of the cam that still is at original height.
Cheers, John & Dee. Coopernook. NSW.

famous fitter

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Re: McDonald Imperial Super Diesel
« Reply #38 on: 11 April, 2020, 06:01:40 pm »
Hi Cobba,

Try find another cam ? If not I?d use a cast iron rod with pre heat to build up and carefully grind and Linish smooth to original profile.

Don?t use a mig welder on cast iron ever.

It?s amazing the things you find when doing up an engine - how bad things can get and they still ran !!!!

Keep us posted on your progress

Cheers Justin

cobbadog

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Re: McDonald Imperial Super Diesel
« Reply #39 on: 11 April, 2020, 09:51:08 pm »
Thanka Justin, Cast iron rods it is then. I am not in the mood to start to remove another flywheel off the 2nd engine as yet. I still have memories of removing these 2 mongrels.
Going back to old school electrodes, would they have had a white paint on the ends? From my failing memory yellow was for stainless but for some reason I have a small number with white on the ends. As Dad was a welder, unlike his Son, I inherited all the toys from his shed and a number of welding rods came home with me and most are general purpose  6013 from memory again.
Thanks for your reply.
Cheers, John & Dee. Coopernook. NSW.

cobbadog

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Re: McDonald Imperial Super Diesel
« Reply #40 on: 12 April, 2020, 04:08:13 pm »
I have been around the world and back with this issue on other Forums and one of the ideas put forward was also suggested by my wife Dee, make a larger roller. I dismissed the idea at first as I did not have that off the engine an I thought that the roller would be mounted in between a the push rod for added support but NO, it is simply bolted onto the side of the push rod and there is room for a larger roller to be installed.
So at the moment my thoughts are to make a larger diameter roller and dress the cam surface to get rid of the lip that is left at the moment. I have a hardened block of steel that followed me home one day as an unwanted off cut and this would be ideal to use.
Any thoughts on this idea?
Cheers, John & Dee. Coopernook. NSW.

wee-allis

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Re: McDonald Imperial Super Diesel
« Reply #41 on: 12 April, 2020, 06:59:54 pm »

John, no matter how big you make your roller, it won't lift the valve high enough. it is the height of the lobe on the cam which controls the valve lift. If you don't either re-build or replace the cam, it will never work correctly.  The height and duration of the cam lobe in any engine is critical to that particular engine.
If it's old, treat it like gold.
C1300 Inter, 38 Allis B,47 VAK1A David Brown,48 TEA Fergie, 53 Morris Six,  Moruya, Sth coast NSW.

cobbadog

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Re: McDonald Imperial Super Diesel
« Reply #42 on: 12 April, 2020, 09:25:43 pm »
Thanks for that Steve, looks like its abck to buying some rods.
Cheers, John & Dee. Coopernook. NSW.

wee-allis

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Re: McDonald Imperial Super Diesel
« Reply #43 on: 13 April, 2020, 08:00:48 am »

And don't tell Dee, "See I told you so". That wouldn't be nice.
If it's old, treat it like gold.
C1300 Inter, 38 Allis B,47 VAK1A David Brown,48 TEA Fergie, 53 Morris Six,  Moruya, Sth coast NSW.

cobbadog

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Re: McDonald Imperial Super Diesel
« Reply #44 on: 13 April, 2020, 04:07:25 pm »
Too late, she knows, she knows everything didn't you know!

Anyway, I have been just like a women going backward and forwards changing my mind on a whole heap of things so long as I don't start shaving my legs I think I will survive this turmoil.
Today I stripped off the oil pump and then cleaned out the sump and the area where all the gears run, what a bloody thick mess was inside here. So as it is now is good enough. As things came apart I found the shaft that the cam gear runs on has a slot machined in it for lubrication was choked so that part is cleaned up now. The oil pump was hiding so much crud behind it I could not believe that it just kept on falling out as I scraped away. So after cleaning up the pump I stuck it in my hand basin where I work and submerged the pick up of the pump and spun the gear by hand slowly. Nothing happened then wound it back the other way and presto, it works. Spun it faster by hand and the water spun out like a hose so when it get oil back inside it certainly will pump well. I blew out the water and filled the inside with Lanox then sprayed the outside as well. Next was the oil pressure indicator on the outside of the engine. It was stuck in the IN position so with a bit of Lanox on the outside and I turned the brass elbow that connects to the oil pressure line to facing upwards and filled it with Lanox and left it for a few hours. At last the small button that is suppose to extend out when there is pressure was freely moving. So when it is all the way out I filled the elbow with Lanox and pushed the button in and it pumped out the Lanox so this looks like it will work as well.
Next challenge apart from the cam gear is the water jacket around the cylinder, this will take a lot of doing but I have a very cunning plan for it.
Cheers, John & Dee. Coopernook. NSW.